Summer 2024 - Peak District and London, UK
20 August 2024 by Fuyuko Gratton
categories:
travel food
tags: travel uk
After watching Pride and Prejudice, I wanted to visit Chatsworth and check out the gorgeous green scenary. That’s what made me plan this 7 days trip which turned into a 8 day trip (more on that later). I wanted to exlore the English countryside. Also, I needed to escape from the Texan summer, and am alway up for trying out some michelin listed restaurants.
Day 1 - 2: Traveling From Austin, TX To Baslow, UK
Pretty much spend all day plus some to get to the first destination, Baslow, UK near Chatsworth
- Flight from Austin, TX, stop over at Dallas, TX, then to London, UK (overnight between Dallas and London)
- Train using Piccadilly line from Heathrow Terminal 5 to King’s Cross Station (London), then a EMR train from Pancras International(London) to Chesterfield
- Took a Uber from Chesterfield station to my hotel, Fischer’s At Baslow Hall
I had a few hours to kill after I arrived at King’s Cross Station area. I’ve purchased the advance tickets so that I can save a quite a lot on their first class seat (saved about US$50 roundtrip). Considering the discount train tickets were non-changeable and non-refundable, I made sure that I had a plenty of time to get to the station from the airport. Hence the extra few hours.
I pre-googled a high rated bakeries near the station, and I headed out to try a good croissant at Aux Pains de Papy. Had Croissant Au Beurre and Pain Au Chocolat, and I thought they were pretty awesome, especially since I purchased a US$7 croissant at Austin-Bergstrom International Airport 16 hours prior, and that was a pretty-expensive-yet-s*itty pastry. What I hadn’t realized yet at this point was, paststry competion in London is quite fierce and I ended up finding other croissants I tried later won my heart. But I think Aux Pains de Papy was the best cost performer.
Fischer's At Baslow Hall
I stayed 3 nights at Fischer’s Baslow Hall, and loved it! It’s a beautiful boutique hotel with well kept garden and friendiest staff. The room was charming and rather large for a British hotel room, with modernized bathroom with a soaking tub and separate shower. I love the fact that the interior is “country cottage style” but with a clean & modern tone. The room also had a small sitting area with bench and a table right outside, in a walled garden area, giving a sense of privacy even though the garden area is a shared space among several guest rooms. Highly, highly recommended.
Their restaurant is not starred currently (starred between 1994 and 2019), but is listed in Michelin guide. I enjoyed their daily breakfast and dinner (breakfast was complimentary; dinner is additional).
Fischer’s At Baslow Hall Information
- Address: Calver Rd, Baslow, Derbyshire DE45 1RR, United Kingdom
- Phone: +44 1246 583259
- Website: https://www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk/
- A Michelin Starred Restaurant 1994-2019
Day 3 - 4: Exploring Peak District Area
Spent 2 full days in Peak distrect, visiting castles/estates in the area, Chatsworth House and Haddon Hall. My method of getting around was “walking”. I didn’t get an international driver license for the trip, so renting a car was out of option. Even if I did, I’m not sure if I can safely drive in UK. Looking at their roads, I’m not confident which lane I should be in. Besides, the whole point of this trip was to indulge in the country scenaries on foot just as I saw it in the movie.
Chatsworth House
This is the estate that was used as Pemberley, the home of Mr Darcy in the 2005 film adaptation of Pride and Prejudice. The very picturesque scene in the movie was what made me plan this trip. Gorgeous inside and out. Architecture, art collections, gardens, and trees, gigantic trees everwhere in the property…stunning everywhere you look.
And this place is not only beautiful but also very educational. There are multiple voluteers throughout the house to provide history of the room and to answer your questions.
My question was “do people actually use this room (this room being the state bedchamber) to sleep?” I asked because the room is decorated heavily in RED with large oil painting in every wall, the ceiling is covered with more paitings (mural)… I sure can tell it’s an extravant room but to sleep? There is no zen or peace. I don’t know if I can relax or fall asleep in here.
The very nice and polite volunteer smiled and responded to my “not-so-sophisiticated” question, “I see this isn’t the style we would decorate in present days. In fact, theese roomes (state apartment) were intended for the king but didn’t get used until George V, several hundreds years later.”
I also received a complimentary guide book of Chatsworth, which is pretty substential – a good coffee table book, not a flimsy brochure – where you can learn about the estate in depth. I actually read some of the sections as I write this. Pretty informative. I think you can get this if you purchase the advance ticket online.
I had lunch at The Cavendish Restaurant which is situated in Chatsworth’s property. While I enjoyed their food and the atomosphere very much, because I am being fed at Fischer’s during my stay in the area, I was a bit more critical of their quality. Regardless, I did love their black forest cake. It’s not too sweet and the cherry is not colored but soaked well in liquor.
I recommend you make reservation in advance if you want to eat there. I was a walk-in for one, and with luck, I only had to wait for a table for 30 minutes. Other walk-ins who came after me were all turned away for the day.
Chatsworth House Information
- Address: Chatsworth, Bakewell, Derbyshire, DE45 1PP
- Website: https://www.chatsworth.org/
Haddon Hall
Haddon Hall is another estate that was used in the Pride and Prejudice movie as Inn at Lambton. I later learned that the estate was also used in other movies such as Jane Eyre, The Other Boleyn, The Princess Bride, etc..
Haddon Hall is not as extravagant as Chatsworth. The interior of the buiding is much simpler and primitive than Chatsworth. But to be honest, I would rather live in Haddon Hall (not that I’d have an opportunity live in a castle…ever) than Chatworth. I love the texture of the materials were used in its natural form throughout the house. I especially loved the oak steps against a white wall.
Haddon Hall has a cafeteria where they offer pastries, sandwiches, other casual lunch items and drinks. It’s a cozy spot to take a break. If you are seeking a full dining experience, however, you should plan it elsewhere.
Haddon Hall Information
- Address: The Estate Office, Haddon Hall, Bakewell DE45 1LA, United Kingdom
- Website: https://www.haddonhall.co.uk/
Hiking Route: From Bakewell to Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, Plus Some
From Baslow To Chatsworth - 2.2 Miles One Way
From my hotel to Chatsworth is an easy, straight-forward route. You will be mostly walking on the marked public footpath, and Google Map can help you find where the path is pretty accurately. Google Map will tell you to get off from the foot path to a road which is totally unnecessary. Since the two routes are parallel to each other, and they are less than 100 yards apart, you can choose either one and makes no difference.
From Baslow to Haddon Hall - 7.5 Miles One Way If You Know Your Way Around
Getting to Haddon Hall from my hotel was a bit tricky. Google Map is absolutely useless in this case. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT follow their “walking” direction from/to Haddon Hall to Bakewell. The Map tell you to walk along A619 which does not have a side walk for you to walk safely at some point.
I knew, from the day before, there is a footpath to Chatswell. And I saw the footpath continued on past Chatwell. So I took a chance and first walked to Chatsworth, then asked both Google Map and Apple Map on my phone to give me a walking direction from Chatsworth to Haddon Hall. This will give you the actual “walkable” walking route to the town of Bakewell which is near Haddon Hall.
However from the town of Bakewell and Haddon Hall, Google Map will tell you walk along Haddon Rd, which does have side walk so you can technically walk. But what’s not shown in Google Map is Monsal Trail go through the town and can get you half way through to Haddon Hall with much better view and tranquility.
Unfortunately, Monsal Trail won’t take you all the way to Haddon Hall, and at the end of the trail, neither Google Map or Apple Map can help you. Google Map will try but it will tell you go to “Haddon Railway Tunnel” and walk straight line from the tunnel to the hall…it’s a big no no. You will be trespassing a private property.
There is a public footpath, which is legal for you to walk, that will allow you from end of the trail to Haddon Rd near Haddon Hall. My recommendation is to take the footpath HALF WAY, until you fit a paved road. Then, instead of continue taking the footpath across the paved road, walk the pave road to Haddon Rd, then turn left at Haddon Rd and walk until you reach Haddon Hall. I recommend this path because the last leg of the footpath is not maintained. It is covered with tall plants, the path has several muddy spots, it’s more like an deer path than a path for human to walk. You will need a good hiking shoes that you don’t mind getting muddy.
This hike was trail and error for me. If I knew the correct route, I would’ve logged about 15 miles for the day. But because of the “errors” I made along the way (and the way back). I logged around 17 miles that day. That was a lot of walking. I did my best to recreate the actual route I took in Google Map but the last foot path is not recognized in the map…so the last mile to Haddon Hall is different. BUt I posted the link to the map, regardless, because it is a walkable route, which is better than what the two maps suggest.
From Baslow To Eagle Stone And Baslow Edge - 2.2 Miles One Way
I wanted to explore the footpath in Baslow in the other direction too. So I decided to checkout “Eagle Stone” and “Baslow Edge”.
Day 5 - 7: City of London
My objectives for the city of London were:
- enjoy something cultural
- see something historical
- eat yummy food
The hotel I stayed in London was Radisson Blu Edwardian Grafton Hotel. I chose the hotel primarily, they had a single room that was super cheap for London (US$150/night) at a 4-star hotel. A clean and decent hotel and not too far from King’s Cross Station which made it easy to check in coming back from Baslow. The choice was more out of convenience and affordability. I don’t mind staying there again if I must, but not the place I will actively seeking to stay.
Something Cultural
I wanted to cut the cost of the hotel in the city because a chunk of dough went to see a Shakespearn play, Romeo and Juilet. I really wanted to like the play, especially after coughing up around US$400 for a non-vip orchestra seat (and this is not a after-market price, it’s a published price purchase directly from the theater). But unfortunately it was not my liking…far from it. The gimmicks deployed to make the play “modern” and “unique” pretty much ruined the play and didn’t allow the actors to act. It was more like a reading session than a play. I wish I went to see Harry Potter And The Cursed Child instead was my thought afterward.
Something Historical
I wanted to visit Backingham Palace but the tickets were sold out for the week of my trip. So I picked Kengisnton Palace instead. And that was the only pre-planed visit. The rest, like Westminster Abbey and St. Paul Cathedral (didn’t go inside because the tickets were sold out for the time slot…maybe next time), were improptu. In the hindsight maybe I should planned those visits ahead for 1) you don’t have to wait for the next available time slot which could be a next day or even later, and 2) I think you can find discounts if you one of those city pass deals. The entry fees to those locations in London are rather expensive.
Kensington Palace
As expected, beautiful architecture. Also very informative. I learned a lot about Queen Victoria, the politics surrounding it. Their self guided tour was well organized and straight forward. Plus there were additional inforamtion available in each room if you wanted to know more.
I’m glad I wasn’t born in that era. Life was so much more brutal and cruel back then. (not just life in England…anywhere in the world really.) I’m so appreciative of the freedom I was given to pursuit my own happiness. Back then, even if you are a monarch, with all the power and the privileges, it seems it is exremely challenging, if not impossible, to live a life that you want.
Kensington Palace
- Address: Kensington Palace, Kensington Gardens, London W8 4PX
- Website: https://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/
Westminster Abbey
I find it instersting that commoners, like me, would never be allowed to meet the royal family members. But after they are dead, all bets are off. The dead monarchs, their tombs to be more precise, are displayed for the public pleasure.
I also find it odd that some figures are burried under the church floor, tombstone as the floor “tile”, constantly being stepped on by the visitors. I find it rather disrespectful of the dead, but then I’m in the different culture.
When I asked a volunteer to confirm if actual bodies are burried under the floor, he confirmed “those little stone don’t have the whole body, but the big ones…yeah, there are under there.” He also informed me that people are burried everwhere in the property, even some without a mark. There is a document to keep where each individual is burried on the property to keep track. “It’s completely full now though.” Ah, that’s why Queen Elizabeth II is in Winsor not here. Make sense.
Westminster Abbey Information
- Address: 20 Dean’s Yard, London, SW1P 3PA
- Website: https://www.westminster-abbey.org/
Eatries
Luckily, I didn’t run into any “misses” in this trip when it comes to food. Some were better than others. But none of the place was like “oh gosh, never again!”. And some places, I found, that were definetely worth returning to, and I did to one the very next day.
- Day 5: Late lunch/early dinner at Banh Mi Keu
- Day 6: Free breakfast at hotel, takeout from Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley for lunch, dinner at Bancone
- Day 7: Lunch at Bancone, afternoon snack at Le Deli Robuchon Piccadilly
Banh Mi Keu
I was hungry and was planing to eat at BAO Soho, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, which I “researched” prior to the trip. Then I noticed the pastel green wall with some kind of rice bow picture. The picture reminded me of a Vetnamise restaurant I used to go with friends in Rochester, thinking “I loved their pork and rice dish. Oh well, to the BAO soho!” After taking five more steps, I stopped, turned my head back, and looked at the picture again. “I’m hungry. BAO Soho is almost guaranteed to be awesome. I don’t know about this one…could be aweful. But it looks so good in the picture.”
My hunger won and I went in. Ordered their bao and Trio Meat Roast rice bowl because I couldn’t tell which meat was on that picture outside. I could’ve asked the waiter inside, but then I was hungry so why not try all three? I’m glad I did because what I guessed the meat was NOT the one I thought (I thought it was Charsiu Pork but it was crackling pork belly), and the duck meat which I had no intial interest was the one I liked the best.
I also liked their bao, closer to a bao I’d get in Japan than the Chinese style one.
I was pretty happy with my choice, and was thinking it was worth skipping BAO Soho. I didn’t know, at this point, that I get to try BAO Soho later in the trip afterall.
Banh Mi Keu Information
- Address: 9 Poland Street, London, W1F 8PY (Soho location)
- Website: https://www.banhmikeu.co.uk/
Bancone
This place was THE place I wanted to try the most in London for this trip. I’ve been craving for a good pasta. It’s so difficult (it shouldn’t) to find a good Italian restaurant with pasta made in-house in Austin, TX, or in the U.S. for that matter. American Italian changed the italian cusine in the United States. They got their own thing now. It would be nice if they label them correctly…have two separate cusine cateogories, “American Italian” and “Italian”. Then you know what to expect.
…Anyway, I had made a reservation for a dinner well in advance, before the trip. AND, they did not dissapoint!!! When the server asked me every time, “is everything okay? how is the food?”, I was like “This is making me cry, it’s SOOOOO good. You don’t understand. I’ve been craving for this foever!!!”
That night, I had Burrata, King prawn fettuccine, and Praline cannolo.
When the server came back, she said:
“I’m so glad you enjoyed it.”
“I wish I could come back, but I’m seeing a play tomorrow night and I’m heading back home the next day.”
“Well, we are open for lunch too if you…“
“Really? Do you have a table?”
“If you come at the opening time, we can get you a table without a reservation.”
Guess, who showed at 12pm. Another server who saw me last night came over and “You really came back!” Yeah, I wasn’t joking.
For lunch, I had the dishes I saw last night that I wish I ordered: Fried artichoke, Silk Handkerchielfs, and Creme Caramello.
This place made me happy.
Bancone Information
- Address: 39 William IV St, London WC2N 4DD (Covent Garden location)
- Website: https://www.bancone.co.uk/
- Michelin Bib Gourmand 2020-2024
Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley
It’s a pretty pricey place for a cafe, £85 per person for afternoon tea, and £135 person for their tasting course. Not only expensive but I’d be consuming a LOT of sugar and butter in one afternoon. I didn’t want to make a commitment in advance, so I didn’t make a reservation.
I did ended up walking by the cafe, and right about that time, the rain started happening, and it was raining hard. So I was like I’ll go there, order a croissant and a coffee and I’ll wait until the rain stops.
For one, their croissant is sold out (apparently, that’s the first things to get sold out…so I needed come here first thing in the morning if I wanted one), and two, they had no table available for the rest of the day.
But a doorman at the hotel (The Berkeley is a hotel) must have felt a ptiy on me, led me to a bar in the hotel, which is not affliated with the cafe, and help me arrange it so that I can order a pastry from the cafe, bring it in there, and eat at the bar as long as I order a drink.
So I get to enjoy their strawberry tart (I think it was £20 a piece…told you, it’s a pricey place. But it was so heavenly I’d do it again.) with a spiked coffee (with Baileys) until the rain stopped.
Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley Information
- Address: Wilton Pl, London SW1X 7RL, United Kingdom
- Website: https://www.the-berkeley.co.uk/restaurants-bars/cedric-grolet-at-the-berkeley/
- Reservation highly recommended
Le Deli Robuchon Piccadilly
It sounded good, it looked good. It’s a Robuchon.
It’s not as expensive as Cédric Grolet. I think the cube croissant was around £7. It wasn’t bad or anything…but it didn’t stand out. It felt like it was just another ordinary cafe selling decent pastries. But because the name is attached, it became more of a dissapointment. Otherwise, it would’ve been perfectly a content stop…wait, that’s not quite true. I didn’t like the atomsphere there. It wasn’t lively or uplifting…felt more like “tired”. For that, I don’t think I wanna go back.
Now that I know what their croissant tastes like, I can move on…next!
Le Deli Robuchon Piccadilly Information
- Address: 82 Piccadilly, London W1J 8JA
- Website: https://robuchonlondon.co.uk/le-deli-piccadilly/
Day 8 - 9: Heading Back Home
The short story is that my flight from Healthrow was delayed over 9 hours. As the result, I had to stay overnight at a hotel in Chicago and came home the next morning instead of early evening the day before.
It sounds pretty bad, but it wasn’t bad at all…really.
First of all, the delay notification was sent out a day earlier. I was supposed to fly out of Heathrow at eight in the morning. But the flight was changed to 9pm. This meant I didn’t have to wake up super early in the morning to get to the airport. I can sleep in and check out the hotel at 11am, leave my lugguage at the hotel and spend one more day in the city.
I get to try two more eatries, Donutelier anadand BAO Soho, that I wanted to but couldn’t. I also get to check out Tower Bridge up close which I originally didn’t have the time for.
Now, since I purchased a travel insurance, they cover the delayed expenses up to $150 per day…which means my bakery stop (as a late breakfast), and bao stop (as a late lunch) was covered by the insurance.
With the extensive delay, I missed the connecting flight to Austin. Moreover, since we arrived in Chicago around midnight, we need to wait until the next morning for the connecting flight (UK 261 Regulation).
Luckily, if there is 6+ hour delay on the flight originating form a EU coutry or UK, if the delay was not due to an “extraordinary” circumstance (like bad weather or something airline cound’t forseen) the airline is legally obligated to provide hotel accommodation, food, and monetary compensation.
So, as soon as I landed in Chicago, the airline emailed me a prepaid hotel reservation (so I didn’t have to find a hotel myself. It was a Four Point hotel, nothing fancy but clean and comfy). I was provided with food voucher both at Heathrow and at Chicago (though each voucher was approximately US$10 each which isn’t much) and once I got home and submitted the compensation request form, I received about US$650 (equivalent of EU600) check in the mail after 4 weeks.
There were extra day charge on the airport parking, as well as extra day of boarding for my dog…but those were also covered by the travel insurance.
So even though it was unplanned and there were some incovenience involved (like arranging an extra day off from my work, boarding, parking), overall, I considered an extra day in London for free is a win :)
Donutelier
Donutelier was NOT on my radar until I passed by the shop. But fancy looking donuts looked amazing. I passed the shops several times, on the way to the threater, and making my way for the dinner at Bancone. Every time I pass by, I was either full or about to eat at somewhere else. I was like “maybe next time I visit London”.
So the extra day in London felt like a destiny. I was MEANT to eat their creation. Hence, Donutelier became the first spot to visit on the unexpected, very last day in London.
Once I was in the shop, everything looked so good. Cookie an cream looks good, but so does pistachio one, I’ve been lucky with black forests in this trip too. But then I saw THE croissant, with strawberries and cream, looking pretty hard to eat without making a mess. But THAT is what I was drawn to, at a donut shop of course. SO that’s what I got and that’s what ate. No regret. I can try their donuts next time I visit London, just like I originally planned.
Donutelier Information
- Address: 48-50, Charing Cross Road, London WC2H 0BB
- Website: https://donutelier.co.uk/
BAO Soho
Late lunch at BAO Soho, a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Didn’t make a reservation but a wait was short (10-15 minutes?). I ordered “BAO 15” which is a limited time set menu that come with a Bao, a Xiao Chi, and a Rice Bowl for £15. It’s a steal considering a chipotole burrito cost $12+ these days. £15 for a Michelin lunch? Yes, please! You can totally tell when I enjoyed my food by the picture I took AFTER I ate the food because I was too excited to eat the dish and completely forgot to take a picture until I was done.
BAO Soho Information
- Address: 53 Lexington St, Soho, London W1F 9AS
- Website: https://baolondon.com/restaurant/bao-soho/
- Michelin Bib Gourmand 2016-2024
Tower Bridge
An illustration of Tower Bridge is often used in “London Bridge is falling down” and many, including myself, associated this bridge with the nursery rhyme. So when I saw the bridge from the other side of the city, my mind went “Oh, look at London Bridge! Cool”. Then I decided to pay a visit. Google Map referred it as “Tower Bridge”…a different name. I just thought, “London Bridge must be a nick name or an alternative name, or original name”.
But then on the way to the bridge, walking along the river. I came across the actual London Bridge, an ordinary looking bridge. Now I’m all confused. “What does this mean? Is the song about this bridge? but the bridge doesn’t “fall” (meaning a lifting bridge). Why would the song called Tower Bridge, London Bridge when there is another bridge called London Bridge?”
Well, it turned out I was wrong about the bridge as well as the song. The bridge the song refers to is actual London Bridge, not Tower Bridge. And the meaning of the bridge falling down is believed to be the destruction of the bridge, not the lifing mechanism of a lifting bridge like Tower Bridge. I suppose the choice of the illustrated bridge for the song was to lighten the meaning of the song for little kids.
A mystery solved.
Tower Bridge Information
- Address: Tower Bridge Rd, London SE1 2UP
- Website: https://www.towerbridge.org.uk/
Afterthoughts
The trip was very satisfying. The scenaries I get to see in person exceeded my expectation: so beautiful, so peaceful. London was lovely too. There are so many restaurants I wanna try, so many places I want to visit. And the people were so kind everywhere I went during this trip, everything, even things like flight delays, didn’t feel unpleasant. How about that?
I will definitely come back to UK. Next time, I’m thinking of visiting Lake District, inspired by Beatrix Potter, the author of Peter Rabbit.